Fox in the Vineyard

One of the side-effects of my recent venture into sommelier school (credit: Wine School of Philadelphia) is a new-found love of Spanish wine. Truth be told, I had never once gone into a wine store and searched for wine by country. I knew I liked red wine, and usually stuck with what I was familiar with: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and an occasional Pinot Noir (credit the Pinot Noir to my late step-mother Joanne).

Post wine school, and post earning my Level 2 & 3 Sommelier certification, there’s a whole new me when I walk into a wine store. I’m now shopping by country first, grape second, and learning my way through the varying number of other distinctions when it comes to choosing a new favorite wine. I’ve found that Spanish Tempranillo is one that I keep going back to.

Why Volver

Tonight’s pick is the 2022 Bodegas Volver Single Vineyard Tempranillo. I love everything about that name. I have been obsessed with Spanish culture since I was a young kid. Ever since my cousin, who is 100% Mexican Irish, or so his St. Patty’s Day t-shirt boasts, taught me my first word in Spanish: leche, I was hooked. He introduced me to some other choice Spanish words, but also Selena, and I immediately wanted to learn the language, the music, and learn all the Spanish cultures. I immersed myself in Spain, Mexico, Guatemala, Puerto Rico, Dominican Republic and Cuban culture. I wanted to know everything!

In the glass

Okay, but back to the wine. I love me a bold, rich red wine. When I poured the Volver, immediately I noticed how deep burgundy the color is and that alone is enough to get me excited about the taste. It’s got notes of dark berries and I wanted to say leather and grass as well, but definitely the scent of black cherry sticks out to me. Vanilla and oak for sure. Wine scent is something I still struggle with — hands down — but I’m determined. I didn’t pass my blind taste (and scent) exam without some level of skill, but bear with me as I refine this a little further as we go.

On the palate

Flavor-wise, I’m definitely tasting that black cherry. This is a very flavorful wine. I’m sensing clove, vanilla, very light spices and cedar, and I’d say medium tannins that linger slightly on my tongue. Also a medium-minus acidity. There’s a slight after-taste of cedar and that vanilla lingers, for what it’s worth. I’m even getting a little flashback to cigar shop, but just a hint. Really there’s a lot of what I like in this wine. And its flavors are sneaker waves. The more you sip, the more they slip in.

“Its flavors are sneaker waves. The more you sip, the more they slip in.”

The verdict

All-in-all, this is going to be a hard one to beat. I’ve got a half-bottle of Bordeaux downstairs to finish, but I already know that pales in the bright light of this Tempranillo. I’m giving this one a 9 out of 10.